Sunday, August 01, 2021

Dubrovnik and Beyond

 

We were in Dubrovnik for just a short 3 day weekend. Why Dubrovnik? We are Game of Thrones fans and we had heard that the town was quite beautiful. Given that we weren’t going to have a lot of time we decided to keep it pretty local BUT because I’m so keen on getting passport stamps we did spend an entire day driving to Montenegro. I’m tempted to say we wasted the day since we spent about 5 hours in total just sitting on one side of the border or the other waiting to get through, but still it was fun to drive around and we saw the city of Kotor. We stayed at the Hilton which, in a later photo you can see was destroyed just 30ish years prior. It had a great view with a seaside balcony part of which face the old town and fully facing the sea. 




 

The next day we had a Game of Thrones tour scheduled for the afternoon, but I should note that during the peak of the day temps were reaching 40C and so it was really not fun to walk around. Most of our day we split between 7-11am and then 4pm and after in order to avoid the worst of it. So that morning we hopped a ferry to the island of Lokrum and spent the earlier part of the day walking around there and seeing what we could, old fortifications and some scenes from Game of Thrones. I don’t mean to be demur, the island was beautiful as was the sea. It just wasn't a whiz bang type of thing. You could easily, EASILY, spend a couple days there if you want to take it slow, swim a lot in the sea, and sip some expensive drinks. It was nice. 






 Arriving back around noon we headed to the comfort of our hotel the later headed out for the game of thrones tour. Our tour did not disappoint. The guide was knowledgeable and friendly and most of the other people on our small tour were also fans so knew enough about the show to make it fun.





 

On our final day in the city we woke early so we could be the first ones on the city walls. There is a counter clockwise walking path on top of the city wall and both for reasons to avoid people and to avoid the heat we started right when it opened at 9am. We moved pretty fast, but it still took until nearly 11am to complete the loop. I suppose we could have taken quite a bit longer but it is mostly wall and parapets and not much else along the way







Having some time to kill in the afternoon we did see a few more things, small museums in the town and such, but not much more.










The picture of our hotel, bombed out in the war and burned down. It is always interesting to consider time and place. It was not lost on me where we where and the history attached. I considered many place we could have gone to reflect that, but decided against it and to have a "nice trip" However, the war is in the cracks of society as we saw in this photo. Had Aya been sitting on the balcony as in the first photo of this post, things would have been very different. 















Friday, July 30, 2021

The Land of the Midnight Sun

 



 

Ok, so Iceland is not exactly the land of the midnight sun but it is close! The sun shines pretty long during the summer days. From roughly midnight to 3am it did go down, but not exactly. It just kind of hovered on the horizon. Knowing we would have plenty of sunlight and not be too far beyond our time zone (just 2 hours) we formulated a plan. Last time we came to Iceland was in the winter and we had noticed that many of the attractions started late, if they had a start time at all. Tourists seemingly did not stir until 9am or after. Considering how nice it was for us to get up early, drive to a location, and then enjoy it all by ourselves we wanted to attempt this again. So, we made sure to be up and ready to go by around 7am each morning.

 

I should also mention that Iceland was “covid free” and right when we arrived all restrictions were lifted, no masks, no distancing, nothing once inside the country. They had zero domestic infections for a couple of weeks prior and 90%+ of the population was vaccinated. There was also a requirement to be fully vaccinated or to pass two covid tests, prior to departure and on arrival, to enter the country. Of course, that meant that some of the arriving tourists did in fact test positive. I think it was about 20 per week when we were there. It was nice living in the “covid free” world, but it also felt weird and at times a little unnerving.





Day 1: We arrived in the afternoon and had a 3.5 hour drive ahead of us as we left the airport bypassing Reykjavik and heading to the north. This day we weren’t going to have much time to see anything anyhow so we figured we should just make the most to put distance on. We did however make a detour to the Lave fields of (volcano) since I knew it was relatively close to the airport. The volcano was easy enough to find and there were lots of tourists there. We got close enough to touch the recently cooled lava and to peak into the depth to see it actually wasn’t totally cooled! Some orange embers were still blazing inside. There were hikes that went further uphill and could get you much closer to the actual eruption site, but we had a long day of travel behind us and a long drive in front of us so we did not go that far. We drove on to the north another few hours and stayed on a farm just north of Borgarnes.






Day 2: That night we were staying in Akureyri and in the afternoon we were going to catch a whale watching tour in a town near there called Hauganes. The drive was oh so beautiful. We saw beautiful coastline, drove through some dense fog and eventually into a mountain pass that had unbelievable views. We ended up stopping for a quick lunch by the side of the road and enjoyed looking at the peaks while eating our tuna and cheese sandwiches that I’d made that morning. The whale watching boat was big enough and the summer air was nice, but being out on the water though after a couple of hours it did start to feel cold. We were surrounded by water that was getting runoff from the mountain snow after all. The cliffs along the bay had many waterfalls pouring their cold contents in. Finally about an hour into the journey we stopped heading out and just kind of were hanging around looking and then the humpback appeared. It would stay at the surface for a few minutes getting air and then dive back down for ten or fifteen minutes. Then it would surface again and our boat captain would quickly manoeuvre us into position to see it well. We repeated this five or six times and then began to head back. After whale watching we drove the 40 minutes or so on to Akureyri and our place for the night.


 




Day 3:

The next day we drove to Dettifoss waterfall. The drive there was a little long, but the view was well worth it. This waterfall is actually featured in the movie Prometheus. https://youtu.be/ZHpJr7_5Mjg?t=24 Arriving there is a little difficult as there are two options, east or west, and the fork to choose which side you would like to visit on is almost an hour from the waterfall. Better get it right!



Day 4:

Today we drove quite far to see the puffins at but then largely just drove the day seeing beautiful scenery and ending up that night just outside of EgilsstaĆ°ir at a horse ranch. 








Day 5: Hiking and a lot of driving again no doubt. We got up early to see Hengifoss Falls. It was about an hour up and back. We had it all to ourselves. By the time we got to the car other tourists were just arriving. Hoping to again beat the crowds we kept on to Laugerfell where I’d read there was a loop trail that ran along a glacial river call the waterfall loop where there were many waterfalls all in one stretch. We were not disappointed. The hike took us a few hours and was hard at points, but the scenery was fantastic and we barely saw anyone the whole time. It was great. Tired, we made our way through misty mountain passes to our stay for the night, a farm just outside of Hof. 






Day 6: Today was going to be our last full day and we didn’t have a big plan so we visited the cave at HĆ”lsanefshellir  and the gorge at Fjadrargljufur the stayed at our cabin right near the caves just outside of Vik. The cave we had somehow bypassed on our first visit, but our friends had told us we really needed to check it out. I thought they were really cool. The friends said to go around the first bend where all the tourists were and you might have the further caves to yourself. They were right! Unfortunately it was a quite windy day and so we didn't stay there very long but I could see making a picnic lunch of it if you had time and the weather was nice. 


Day 7: The next day up and early to get back to Rejkyavik and get on our flight back but we did have a few hours to spare and so looped to Thingvellir national park, the site of the first parliament in Iceland. Oddly, in was no that funkadelic. Also along the way was Kerid, a volcanic lake of azure blue. FYI  if you are planning to visit, there are no toilets there but there are some nice bushes right by the carpark. 




Oh... and of course we went back to the tomato restaurant for the all you can eat soup direct from their greenhouse grown tomatoes. Iceland, see you again! 




 


 




 


 



Sunday, January 17, 2021

Before dawn on the new year

 


It is January 1st, 2021. A new year opening. In the afternoon Aya and I start talking about going to the grocery. By the evening we are making plans to go and what we are going to get but more importantly, when are we going to go. “Should we set an alarm?”. No, I say, I’ll wake up early enough, and I do. By about 5:45am I am rolling out of bed. Aya is up already. I get some coffee and sit at my computer for a little while, but by 6:30 we are getting ready. We’re pulling on our jackets and backpacks, but our masks and latex gloves too of course. We both have hand sanitizer in our pockets. We are ready to go out.

 

As we leave our building we make sure not to touch anything with our hands, but push doors open with our elbows. It is very quiet and nothing is moving, nobody is outside yet. We are alone and that is good. As we make our way in the dark to the grocery we see a couple of people walking about, but not many. Getting to the one crosswalk we have to cross there are very few cars, just one sitting at our side waiting for the light, none crossing in our path. I say to Aya that we should just cross, but I know she won’t want to anyways so I am really saying it into the cold January air. Aya comments on how few people there are and I say well, it is a Saturday and a holiday weekend so most people are probably sleeping in.

As we cross the street the grocery comes into view. The sign isn’t lit, a little strange. Aya asks if they are even open but just as she says that a car comes tearing into the parking lot. Looks like, I say. Crossing the parking lot Aya says, how many other customers do you think are inside? One, I guess.

 

Going into the sliding doors we use the alcohol provided and rub it on our latex gloves. Then we enter the second set of sliding doors and get our first look inside. Not a customer in sight, but a few workers quickly moving about unpacking and restocking. We split up and start gathering things to make the trip as quick as we can. Of course, we manage to find everything on our list and everything not on the list. As we are checking out we notice there are now a couple more customers in the store. Looks like we beat the “rush”.

 

As usual no one is at the cashiers’ lanes so we use the self-checkout. I have some beer to scan and I know it will stop me from checking out before getting assistance, so I tell Aya to use another one to complete the rest of the items. As I wait for someone one of the security guards comes over to help. I kind of wish he wouldn’t as moments earlier I heard him coughing wetly and sniffling. He has a face shield on, but it is already pretty full of droplets. His eyes are bloodshot and he doesn’t look well, but then again, he could just be an old guy with a cold who had to show up to work early in the morning. We can fit just about everything in our bags but a box of tangerines and some bananas, green the way Aya likes them.

 

We pack up our bags and head out the double set of sliding doors and as soon as we exit I put down the box of tangerines. We both use sanitizer on our gloves, then carefully remove them, then sanitize our hands again. We’ll use the gloves again on a future trip. They seem to last three or four trips before they get a tear in them. I then pick up the box of tangerines with the bananas on top and we make our way home. It is just starting to get light out and there are a few more people, but not many. As we enter our building we again try not to touch anything with our hands, but there is one door there that isn’t possible when opening it, so we coordinate and one of us uses the key fob while the other uses their hand to open it, then sanitize hands again.

 

When we get to the apartment we turn our keys to go inside and close the door with an elbow. We then put down our bags and unload. Things that can go on the shelf and sit there for two or three days before we use them. Things that we want to use now or need to be kept cold get an alcohol rub down. Is this even needed anymore? We always say it, but never bothered to look it up. Once the goods are put away we put our bags back on the shelf and then wash our hands thoroughly.

 

The shopping is done.

 

That is probably the 12th time or so that we have gone in person to the grocery since March of 2020. The rest of the time we have things delivered. Beyond that, we don’t go anywhere. There is nowhere to go really. Ok, sure in the summer some things were open and we did get a couple small road trips in, being very careful to distance and avoid crowds, stay outdoors, sanitize hands, wear masks and wipe down our rooms, etc. Now, all the restaurants are closed, but delivery is open thank the gods and politicians. Any place for people to gather is shut. Going to friends’ places is an option, but knowing what we know about what they are up to it isn’t a good idea. Everyone says they are careful and we want to believe them and meet up, but then in the same breath mention they went to their in-laws for dinner last night and can meet up but after finishing a yoga class and picking up their kid from the daycare. No, thanks, I hope you understand.

 

We try to look on the bright side and there is much of that. We are healthy and happy. We have both kept our jobs and enjoy them. We live in a place that is fairly relaxed and good for our mental and physical health. Our families are doing ok. Our friends are doing ok. In some ways this has highlighted the better parts of ourselves. From my perspective one thing I am thankful for is the shift to the introvert. Those who preferred to be home, be online, and be generally less social have done much better in this life than others might. From online classes to no contact deliveries, I’m hoping we don’t throw the baby out with the bath water once things do start to shift back to normal. 

Still, life is getting tough as many people know. The initial lockdowns in the spring led to a lot of reimagining and uncertainty about what would come next. After a few months most people chose to try to get back to normal, a big mistake. People were then and now complaining of fatigue. I understand that, but I also understand that the virus is not fatigued. Something I think of often is how when Aya and I arrived in Beijing we did so with about 30 other teachers and their kids. In those first few weeks we saw each other often as we figured out the city and the new positions in the school and quite often I saw people wearing masks or curtailing certain activities due to air pollution. We did too but it didn’t take long for people to stop wearing masks (unless it was really bad pollution) or just regularly going about their lives. They were fatigued, but the pollution wasn’t. Aya and I always continued with our original precautions and we continue to do so now in the pandemic. At least in this case there is an end of sorts in sight.

 

That end has got us all looking forward to 2021 and what may come. What may return to “normal”. For many that means going back to making a living as normal and I can sympathize with that. I’m a teacher and I know a lot of my colleagues want to go back to “normal”, but there is the thing. It won’t be “normal” even when we are back to normal. This year has scarred us. Many will continue to feel the presence of it for the rest of their lives. The way we work, travel, and come together will be forever changed for this generation. In time that may fade away, but it will take a generational turn over. Though the vaccines are rolling out now it will take years to get to any sense of herd immunity around the globe. And then, what about the next one? Everyone now can clearly register that a global virus spread is a possibility. In the past experts said not just a possibility, but an eventuality. Now, those same experts are saying this is our dress rehearsal for the next one.


So, it may come, some day and unexpectedly just like this one. For now, we listen to the experts. We overcome. We get strong and, eventually, we gather and reunite. We count our blessings. We look on the bright side. We find the silver linings. We support each other and we enter 2021 with optimism but also clear eyes for the future. We get up early to get all of the things we need and all of the things we don’t need.