Wednesday, March 31, 2010

New Zealand






The Second part of my trip took me alone to New Zealand. I arrived in Christchurch on the afternoon of the 25th and picked up my campervan near the airport. It was a bit relaxed compared to places in the states. The van came with a sink, stove, cooler, table and bench/double bed. The front seat was also quite wide and could probably sit three people without too much hassle. But alas, I was alone!
So after getting some gas and eats, checking my maps, and making a couple wrong turns I was on my way out of Christchurch and into the mountains. The first day I just drove and drove as long as I could. The fact that the scenery was quite amazing, all highways were one lane affairs(2lanes, one each way), and I wasn’t yet comfortable driving the van meant that I was going a bit slower than I would end up doing on the way back. Also, bridges were one single lane! One! At first I was confused, but as it turns out many of the bridges in the region are like that. The reason I will explain later, but basically you come barreling up to this bridge at 100k and make a quick check to see if someone is coming the other way. If no one is coming you can go across, if someone is coming you have to wait on the other side of the bridge. This example should clearly illustrate just how few people there are in the country that one lane will suffice for a bridge.
I put the pedal down as much as I could and only stopped once for about 3 minutes that day. I made it through Arthur’s Pass and on to the west coast just as the sun was starting to get low. That wasn’t going to stop me however. I pushed on as far as I could and around 730 noticed with a bit of panic that my gas was very low. In New Zealand there aren’t that many people and hence not a whole lot of gas stations. As I made my way through a town called Hari Hari I spotted one and shot in determined to fill up and press on with the last precious few minutes of day light, Franz Josef was only about 50k away. The station was closed. So I turned back into town and went to the only place that I could make out as a business which turned out to be a bar/liquor store/ restaurant/ hotel/ camper park. So I paid for a parking spot and then went inside for a meal and a beer. No one was unfriendly to me, but there was a feeling that I was set apart. So I finished up quick and asked the bar tender what time the station opened before heading to my van, 8am. I thought, “No worries”. The station opens at 8, I have to be to Franz Josef at 845 and I was making an average of 90kph so I could make it.

The next morning I got up at 7, showered and waited for the gas station to open. The guy showed up at 805 and I was filled by 810. I jetted out of there and made it to Franz Josef at 850 being one of the last to show up for the scheduled tour. I got outfitted with boots, pants, and jacket and we were on our way to the glacier. The hike was quite beautiful as I will describe in another short post, but on the hike I felt like the smartest man alive, or at least the smartest one on the glacier. As we made our way up the glacier our guide would ask us various question like do you know why the ice is blue? (Compacted ice and light refraction) How far away is the glacier from where we are? (About 2k at the time) why are bridges in the region built with 1 lane? (Building costs, floods a lot which washes the bridges away) And the like and every question I answered I got right while no one else seemed to get one. After a quick tour of the glacier it was back down and I was back in the van all gassed up by 2pm, back on the road. This day I decided that I would try to make my way back to Arthur’s Pass where I had read about some decent half day hikes located near some camper parks. I arrived at my desired spot, Klondike, about 6pm and so had roughly 2 hours till sunset so I walked around the area and discovered two young guys camping a fair distance away, but by NZ terms pretty close. As dusk settled in I went back to my camper to get ready for bed. After hiking around I was feeling a little unsettled about the place so, when I heard a very strange noise very close to my camper while I was brushing my teeth, I decided to get the hell out of there. I zoomed up the road a bit and stopped where I saw a few other vans parked at a wayside. I thought, “ah, peace at last” but it was not so. I fell asleep just before 10, but at 130am was awoken. At first I didn’t know why I had woken up, but then I heard a sound; the sound of a plastic bag being moved. I suddenly realized that I had a plastic bag next to my feet in bed and something must have gotten in to get after it. As quickly as I could I sprang up and banged on the light to see who was there, but saw nothing. After staring for a few seconds I decided I was dreaming, but just in case grabbed my flashlight. Sure enough, a few minutes later I heard the noise again only a bit louder. I flashed on the light and caught what I thought was the tiniest bit of brown fur dipping off the edge of my bed before all was still again. This time I got up and put the food in the cooler in back of the van and searched the rest of the van to see if I could find the bugger. No luck. I thought perhaps now that the food was inaccessible the mouse would stop. I was wrong. He tried scratching into the cooler and failing that made his way to the front seat where I had a bag of garbage. I banged on the light again to see if I could catch him but this time he didn’t stop moving. He was IN the bag. So I just opened the door to the front, tied up the bag, walked about 50 paces from my van and tossed the bag into a trash bin. I thought that was that until 4am when the mouse returned! However, this time I was not quite as upset and just let him be. He woke me a few more times, but by the time I got up around 630 he was nowhere to be found. Little bugger ruined my sleep and left me a few little round presents on the front seat.

Morning in the mountains was great and by 730 I was on the Beally Spur trail. I hiked for about 5 hours then got back in the van and made for Christchurch. After returning my van I walked into town and booked into the Riccarton Inn and after talking to the desk clerk figured out that I had to leave pretty darn early to make my fight out. Since it took me about 1.5 hours to walk to the hotel from the rental place I figured it would take 2 to make it to the airport which meant if I walked I would have had to get up at 3am at the latest. Despite being low on cash I thought bollocks to that and paid for a cab at 4am, not like that was much better.
New Zealand was great! There are so few people there it is amazing. I can’t wait to go again, with Dan, and make it a real hiking trip.

Wednesday, March 17, 2010

Tuna




Today at work I had a discussion with a co-worker about bluefin tuna. This was especially interesting because this is a hot issue in Japan. Friction has been created from the differing sides of the issue taken by Japan and China in opposition to many western nations, including the U.S. My co-worker asked me if I ate maguro sushi, which is tuna. I could easily answer no because I don’t eat any type of animal, but the brief discussion that ensued would be typical even if I had answered yes.
He asked why the U.S. would put a ban on bluefin tuna. I told him that scientists that have monitored bluefin tuna populations for decades have seen precipitous decline and are recommending a ban on Bluefin. He said that the U.S. didn’t eat much tuna and so shouldn’t have a say in the tuna population’s control. I told him that despite that the U.S. doesn’t eat a lot of tuna that doesn’t change that the population is going extinct. We went around in circles like this for a few minutes before he was called away, but it was an interesting conversation. Just about everyone I have talked to in Japan holds much of the same opinion: Don’t mess with my maguro sushi.

While I am sympathetic, maguro is a really popular and traditional food here; I don’t understand why Japan would fight so hard to oppose the ban. I started to think, is it true that the Bluefin population facing collapse? What does this ban entail? Perhaps there was something that I was missing because surely any reasonable adult would be willing to give up something in the short term in order to ensure having it available in the long term. Surely.

So the first question I asked myself was; what exactly is tuna? I had better define it before I figure out if it is endangered and worth protecting. I think most of us know that it is a very large fish that inhabits the oceans of the world. Beyond that most people are pressed for details other than it comes in a handy little can in most grocery stores. Tuna is found all over the world, but it is misleading to think that means they are plentiful because there are lots of different kinds of tuna like Yellowfin tuna, Albacore, Bigeye, Black fin, Skipjack, etc. These are all slight variations on “Tuna” and they all inhabit different regions of the oceans based on their bodies, diets, etc. and in turn inhabit unique niches in their eco-systems. Hence the loss of these unique tuna means a drastic and possibly unknown change in the eco-system. So, Bluefin tuna, the one in question where does it come from and what is it like? There are, according to Wikipedia, three groups of Bluefin. They reside in the North Atlantic (and Mediterranean), Southern Atlantic, and Pacific.
So with this information came my second big question; are these three populations all endangered and would they all be included in the ban? Yes and yes. Suffice it to say that all three stocks have suffered a decline in population of 75% or more since the early 1960’s and all are considered in danger of collapse.
So then I asked my next question; why are they endangered? It turns out that Bluefin is hugely sought after, especially in Japan which consumes about 80% of the harvested stock each year. In fact the record for the highest price paid for a single Bluefin tuna is here in Japan. On the average they can sell for the equivalent of 10,000 dollars, but this one in particular sold for over 175,000 dollars. One fish, dead, to be eaten, for over 175,000 dollars. To put that in perspective, Bluefin tuna are quite large. They can exceed 1000lbs in weight, though I think this one was a bit less than that, around 600lbs. Did that put it in prospective or are you still saying “That’s expensive!” like I am?
So that led me to my next huge important question; could the Bluefin tuna reasonably be replaced by another tuna stock, now to save the Bluefin population from collapse or in the future if it does collapse? The answer is yes. Although there are other populations of tuna that are listed as endangered such as Pacific Bigeye and Indian Ocean Yellowfin, there are still other populations that are not endangered. Skipjack, which supplies 60% of the worlds consumed tuna, is not endangered.
So finally this led me to my final and perhaps most important question surrounding this ban on Bluefin tuna; what will the ban do? It appears that the ban will NOT stop the fishing of Bluefin tuna. What it will do is stop the International trade of Bluefin tuna, which is where Japan gets a kink in the neck. Most of the Bluefin that Japan eats comes from somewhere else and hence if an international ban is set their supply will be drastically cut.
For now that ban is being discussed, now, at the CITES meeting in Qatar where 175 member nations will discuss this ban among other things. It needs a ¾ vote to carry and for now it seems that it might do so. The U.S. and the EU (largely) are behind the ban and Japan and China are opposed. Soon enough we will see what happens. Now, more than before, I am left thinking, “What exactly is Japan thinking by blocking the ban?”

Monday, March 15, 2010

Oceania



In a few days I fly to Australia with Aya. This is to be our honeymoon. First we are going to Cairns on Australia's NE coast, then a few days in Sydney. After that she is coming back to Japan because she has to work early. I am going on to New Zealand for a few days more.
I was thinking about this trip and feeling that there was something special, like some kind of marker that I would be passing by going here. At first I thought that it was going to make my 19th and 20th countries that I have traveled to, breaking me out of the teens. So I got out a piece of scrap paper and jotted down what countries I have been to. That was not it, they will be 18th and 19th. That seems like a lot when I say it, but when you compare it to people like Charles Veley (http://www.mosttraveledpeople.com/) it's not that much.

Then I thought this will be my longest flight ever. It is quite a ways from Japan to Australia since unlike a lot of other flights the pilots don't have the "by the pole" option that has saved me so much time before. This flight will actually not even be close to the longest, that was Tokyo to Minneapolis at about 10,000 miles. So it's not the 20th country and it's not the longest flight, but I thought it might be since it's in the souther hemisphere and... oh yes, they are in the southern hemisphere!

This will be my first trip south of the Equator. First time, that sounds strange to me considering that, you know, there is this whole half of the planet that I have never set foot it. There are some reasons for that like the difference in landmass between the northern hemisphere and the southern, roughly 2/3 of the continents' landmass is in the north. When you consider that there are also population considerations. About 85% of the world's population lives in the northern hemisphere.That is quite a difference.

So there you have it. I am headed to the other half of the globe and a new continent! I remember that my grandfather said there was some ceremony that he did with his ship mates when they crossed the equator on their destroyer in WWII. Something about making a gift to Neptune. I wonder, if I am flying, if I should give a gift to Jupiter instead.

Monday, March 01, 2010

Νενικήκαμεν, We have won







DNF. That is an acronym used in the world of foot races that I thought I may have to title this blog with. Even during the race I thought that perhaps this would brand my experience, but once I went past the 30k marker I knew that even if I walked I wouldn't have to use Did Not Finish as a description of this experience.
My Tokyo Marathon run ended Sunday at about 2pm, around 5 hours after I crossed the start line. I say about because I really don't know. There were so many people that, despite the start gun I didn't even get to the start until 10 minutes after the race had started, and the people were so thick for the first 10k that I didn't make good time (1hr 10min) and the lines for the bathrooms were so long that each of the two times I went cost me 10-15 minutes. So of my time for the marathon I can't say definitively. I don't know the official and I don't know what I really 'ran' but the time on my watch said 5hr 5min. In the end, I don't care. Sure, it would have been nice to run a faster time, like I expected, but I am really really happy just to have finished the race.

At 6am Sunday morning I woke up to take a shower and get my gear on. I was out the door to the train station, Aya guiding, by 730 and by 800 I was in the race area. Here I departed from Aya and awaited my start. By 850 I was in my 'block'(H) waiting to start the race. It was raining, windy and about 6C (43F ) which are not exactly ideal conditions for running, but at least I had 30,000 other people to share my discomfort with, which makes things a bit more bearable. At 9:12 I heard the official gun and the ensuing fireworks and everyone started to cheer. Slowly my group started to move. By the time we crossed the start 10 minutes had gone by and looking ahead and behind there was no end of runners. The first 10k seemed like a breeze. At this point the 10k runners split off (there was a 10k race attached to the first part) and the marathoners went on. It was also at this point that Aya and I had set up our first meet point, and there she was with her parents. Unfortunately because of the 10K runner's chute I could not go talk to them, but just wave, yell, and run on. Shortly after I took my first bathroom break and started to shiver as I cooled down in the line.
Starting off at 10.5k with my watch reading 1hr 20min was a little discouraging. I thought I would be making better time, but unlike in training I had to deal with people around me and could not just pee by the side of the path like usual. At about 13k I started to develop some trouble on my left ankle, it was sore and that had been a worry spot in training so I was careful to take it easy. Thankfully by 16k the pain was drifting into the background among a number of new pains. At 17k, as the course was doubling back on itself I got to see the back of the pack and realized that about 5k behind me the pack was thinning to almost no one. I was falling behind. It was here that I again took another bathroom break, the second and last of the race. At 20K I again saw Aya and her mother at our planned point, I am told her dad was somewhat beforehand yelling my name, but among the hundreds of people yelling from the sides I never heard him. At this point I thought, this race could go either way. I was feeling fairly good, but that ankle was hurting me and I was hoping that it and my finicky knee didn't decide to go foul.
Going into 21k I felt pretty good. I was into the race, my pace was evening out, and the race was evening out too. As I passed by the 26k marker and then again at 33k I noticed the back of the pack like I had at 17k, but this time it was a lot thicker, people were slowing down and dropping back. This was to be expected as this was the time for "the wall". I can't say exactly that I felt like I hit a wall, but at about 24k I started to get what I would like to dub the 'unending pain'. I never got really tired, but I did experience increasing pain in my knees. I had experienced this before in training, but only briefly. I was to know it on a new level this day. At 30k I marked my time at 3hr 20min which I thought was not so far behind my predicted goal of 3hrs, with the two bathroom breaks I took the extra 20min was to be expected. On pace and happy.
Going into 31k I was ecstatic. I knew I had already finished so to speak. I could technically walk the rest of the race and make it before the course closed, which if worse came to worse I would do. Things were getting rough and I took a couple brief walking/stretching breaks between here and 35k because my hams especially were getting tight and tired. There was also a building pain in my knees which I did my best to stretch out. By this point, among the runners I was among, about 1 out of 10 were dropping to walk. I was sympathetic, I too wanted to walk, but I was so afraid to walk for any amount of time that I kept going. At 35k, at the appointed spot, I found Aya and her parents. It was so good to see them. Dad gave me a tea and quick massage on the back while mom and I talked. 7k left to go, I couldn't fail.
Just as I was saying my goodbyes and turning to go I realized that my legs were no longer functioning. I tried to run, but hard as I might my legs would not rise properly. Slowly, like a train building steam, I went from a walk to a slow jog to a little faster to a little faster and finally a slow plod.
Going into the last 7k was such a strange experience. I was there, I could taste it, and yet the pain was so heavy I seriously considered stopping. As some cruel joke the planners of the race had set the course of the race to end with a series of hills. Many people, about 1/2 had started to merely walk up the hills, but at this point I recalled some advice given in an article I read. "keep running, if you stop to walk, you may never run again." After my little surprise at 35k I was apt to believe that and I only stopped to walk one time after I had mounted most of the hills and was going into a flat stretch. There is not much to say about that point on. I saw the family one more time at 41.5k, hit the finish, and then walked through the various check points as fast as I was able (really really slowly to be truthful). I met with the family and that is where one of the above pictures was taken as they helped me get my pants back on. I was freezing (calorie loss?) and my legs hurt so much I could not bend to put my pants on nor raise my legs to hand level. So, naturally I suppose, my parents helped me put my pants on and get me on the train to the hotel.
Everyone along the race was very helpful. People poured out in incredible numbers to cheer on the participants, there was hardly a bare spot along the entire 42k of the roadway's sidewalks and sometimes 5 thick. Some people had sugary treats for the runners, some tea, some miso soup, bananas, plums, coffee, beer (yes! one beer guy), rice balls, and more. There were many acts along the way from taiko drummers to dancers, hula girls, high school bands, musicians, cheerleaders and race groupies. There were lots of official tables for sports drinks, bananas, peanut butter sandwiches, and water. Besides all that, the racers that surrounded me were all polite. I was bumped quite a few times, but more often than not I received an apology and sometimes even encouragement. I have to thank all these people for making my race an enjoyable experience.
I have also have to thank especially Aya and her parents for coming all the way to Tokyo to see me run and cheer me on (not to mention massage me). I also want to thank Dan for trading running stories with me and encouraging me along the way. I did it. I did it Dan.
So, when is the next one and who is with me?

Thursday, February 04, 2010

Changing Tastes





This is a long one so you might want to grab a snack(hopefully vegetarian) and a drink and settle in.

Recently while doing some research I came across the word "flexitarian" which if you take a second to think about it you may be able to figure out what it means because it is very similar to a word we all know.

Got it yet? It means someone who is largely vegetarian but will occasionally eat meat, which is not to be confused with vegetarians, who never eat meat, or omnivores, who eat a regular diet of meat and veggies. Flexitarian falls somewhere in between those two, but more towards the vegetarian side. I have some friends who are flexitarian, as well as some who are vegetarian. For the longest time I could not understand why. Meat is delicious and yes, there are some cruel circumstances in which our meat is typically raised and yes the slaughter process is gory, but overall I never felt compelled to stop eating meat. The killing of animals and our eating them has a very long history, it is part of who we are. However my thoughts on that has recently changed.

Over the past couple of years I have seen a number of movies, read books and articles, listened to lectures, etc. all of which concentrated on the environment and food, or what we are putting into our bodies. Many books have been very interesting such as The World Without Us, Cod, Collapse, and Omnivores Dilemma. I have enjoyed podcasts such as those by this guy(http://www.ted.com/talks/lang/eng/mark_bittman_on_what_s_wrong_with_what_we_eat.html)and this one too(http://www.ted.com/talks/ann_cooper_talks_school_lunches.html) and most recently this one (http://www.ted.com/talks/dan_buettner_how_to_live_to_be_100.html). You will probably notice that all these talks are on Ted.com, if you don't know about that site yet go check it out, it is excellent. There have been many movies that have interested me. Probably most famous of all is An Inconvenient Truth, but also the 11th hour, and Blue Planet which deal with the environment, but that ultimately is connected to food as well. Recently I have seen this movie (http://www.imdb.com/title/tt1112115/) and this one (http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0765849/) and this one too (http://www.imdb.com/title/tt1286537/) all of which deal directly with food. I recommend these movies, they are interesting.

To get to my point, I have come to think that there may be something behind not eating meat, or at least not so much of it, or maybe just not eating meat made from the production methods we largely use now.
For the past 8 weeks or so I have been eating vegetarian, or trying to. Meat is very hard to get away from. It is in everything! I tried cutting out obvious meat, burgers, chicken breasts, sushi, etc. but to my chagrin found out that there is meat in a lot of soup stocks, potato chips, sauces, pudding, and other products that don't strike you as being "meat" like the "tofu" burgers and "veggie" burgers here in Japan. On top of that, choosing something without meat, from the selection at most grocery stores, convenience stores, and restaurants is not easy. At least not in Japan where I can only make a half assed attempt at reading the labels and just make best guesses at restaurant ingredients. All of that is also complicated by the fact that fish and meat are two different words in Japanese and if you ask for no meat you are likely to get something made with fish stock and a side of fish if you are lucky. My school lunch, which is delicious and nutritious, is unfortunately always made with meat in some form. If you are unlucky, which happens a lot, Japanese people don't even know what you are talking about and bring you a salad with ham chunks in it because you asked for no meat and as a friend of mine quoted a waiter telling him, "it doesn't have that much meat in it", but I am getting away from my original point, which is that I am not eating meat anymore, or almost.
You see it was this book (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Eating_animals) which was the straw that broke the camels back for me. The author, a vegetarian, does not insist that people stop eating meat, but rather that people consider the origin of the meat they eat and what it means in context to the animals and our world (ourselves and our children) and then with that knowledge to reduce consumption. I happened across this book by accident. The author Jonathan Safran Foer, wrote two other popular books, Everything is Illuminated and Extremely Loud and Incredibly Close, the former being made into a motion picture. I enjoyed both books and the film and thought the author was a great story teller, which proved to be true for this latest book too. Despite that upon cracking the book and learning that he was writing it in response to having a son and was interested in what to feed him I persisted in reading what turned out to be one of the best reads I have had in the past year ( I read about 50 books a year). The author talks about the current trend of factory farming in the USA and other countries and exams slaughter house practices and small farm operations. He talks about the change in genetics and feed, the changes in raising animals, and the changes in our health and the health of the animals over the past 50-100 years. At no point, or maybe just once or twice, does he fully advocate being vegetarian. Rather he presents a very convincing argument for more sustainable livestock farming and the better treatment of animals. That's it really and when you say it like that it seems very reasonable. Doesn't everyone want to do something that is sustainable in the long run and is kind to animals to boot?

In the past month or so of slowly revealing to my friends and family my choice to not eat meat I have seen some reactions and met with many questions about why I choose to do this. I will explain that briefly in a bit, but first I want to say this. Most people I encounter are aware that there is something dis-pleasurable in discussing where meat comes from, but would rather not know so that they can continue to eat meat guilt free. I can understand this as at one time I felt that way too, but ignoring the truth doesn't make it go away. I just think the reasons have become overwhelming at this point in time and we(I) can't ignore them much longer, in fact we(I) shouldn't have ignored them for so long. I will now outline the reasons why I have stopped eating meat and assign them a percentage to indicate how strongly I feel about each, but do remember that many and sometimes all of the reasons are interconnected and so overlap. The eating of meat is much more complicated than it may seem.

1. The Environment(55%); This is by far the largest reason for me and without it I might eat meat more regularly. When I say the environment I mean the whole world, not just that around the farms themselves.I am also mainly talking about factory farms, not as much about small family farms. Meat, or the production of it, is responsible for about 18% of greenhouse gas emissions. No, its not just cow farts, although that is part of it. Its mainly produced in the raising and eventual processing and transport of the animals we eat. You may be thinking, 18%, what does that really mean? Well, think about this. Greenhouse gases produced by all transportation put together, trucks, cars, boats, trains, planes, buses, etc., amount to 13.5% of green house gases. Essentially not eating meat is better than using not using a single for of transportation every year in environmental terms. Thinking about buying a hybrid car to save the environment? How about eating half as much meat?
Along with this we know that animals, per pound of protein, consume far more water and grain to produce than, well, grain or vegetables and hence take much more land to produce, something that the world is rapidly running out of. In fact fully 30% of the earth's land surface is devoted to livestock production. In America this is not such a big deal as almost no one is starving to death and there is still plenty of land and water to go around, but given the rapidly developing nations of the world like China and their rapidly growing demand for meat sources more and more water and land are being diverted to meat production which could be better used producing grains and veggies to feed more people for the resources used.
We also know that in the US, in the poultry business, factory farms account for over 90% of poultry production and over 50% of hog production, beef production is thankfully much less, but I will get to that. These huge farms produce massive amounts of waste which is stored in ponds near the facilities until they can be used on fields as fertilizer. Unfortunately things don't always go to plan and ponds leak destroying ground water or contain so much shit that there is not enough land to spread it on, which again results in contamination of air, soil, and water.
When we get to the topic of fish the situation seems even more dire. Japan is one of the leading consumers of fish so this haunts me everyday as I see people gobble up fish. There are lots of details that can be stated here, like to catch 1lb of shrimp most boats will catch about 10-25lbs of by product (other marine life) that will then be dumped back into the ocean dead. By product includes creatures that we like because they are cute like dolphins and turtles along with other edible but not targeted fish. Or you could look at the statistics like that for every 50 individuals of large predatory fish in the ocean like shark, tuna, or marlin, etc. 50 years ago, there is now only 1. Tuna actually is a good place to start researching, if you choose to look at all, since even Americans like tuna, but tuna populations, like many other popular fish, are facing collapse. This is all pertains to fishing for wild fish, but then there are farmed fish too, which carry with them most of the same cons as land farming like small pens, disease, unnatural lives and diets, environmental hazards etc. There is more, but I will stop here.

2. Ethics (30%); Ethics to the animals, to the people involved in raising them, to those who are facing starvation, to our community's sense of what farming is, and to the responsibility we have to feed our children and ourselves good food and keep ourselves healthy.
Animal slaughter, while gruesome, is a fact of life that has been occurring since man has left evidence of his being. While I don't think I can stop slaughter I may be able to help change the method. Methods used in making kosher or halal meat are preferable to me because generally more attention is paid to detail and therefore the animals well being. Slaughterhouses, when forced to run like a factory, get sloppy and end up putting animals through more suffering than needed. Often machinery or people don't do their job well enough and animals end up slowly being bled out or dismembered while still alive, not to mention the workers who have to watch this and those who abuse animals which bring me to my next step, the workers. Workers in the industry, factory farming and slaughterhouses, have an amazingly high turn over rate each year. To me this is no surprise. Who wants to kill things all day everyday? Many times factory farms and large scale slaughterhouses will hire unskilled immigrants because they are less likely to complain about working conditions, factory procedures, and the low low pay. What about the cost of meat? Meat has changed over the past century along with the animals it is produced on. Animals produced for meat have been and will continue to be genetically modified to produce more meat. I want to say here that I am not against modifying things to get better production, even living things. However, these modifications have resulted in larger weaker animals that suffer more broken bones and infections than ever before. The animals start from square one not healthy and have to be feed antibiotics just to make sure they stay alive long enough for slaughter. They are also kept, by the hundreds and sometimes 10s of thousands in confined areas where disease can rapidly spread not to mention the inherent risk of putting any species of any animal in a confined space. Lastly, most importantly, and most obvious to everyone is that meat takes grain to produce, large amounts of grain and water. For instance, what do cows eat? What do chickens eat? Pigs? Do you know? Now ask yourself the next obvious question, is it healthy? The answers are quite easy to find. Anyone can add 2 and 2 in this scenario and imagine the grain production capabilities would be better used going to a starving human rather than a cow or chicken.

3.Health Reasons (10%); Bottom line its healthier to eat less meat. Americans consume way too much meat. I don't even have to bother to list some statistic here to have you believe me, you know its true. However, I can't point my finger at only Americans, basically anyone in a first world nation eats too much meat per capita. For example, Japanese people eat 3 or 4 lbs of fish per week on average. Factor in the other kinds of meat they eat and they aren't so far behind Americans.
What also should be considered is the method in which meat is slaughtered and the raising of the meat itself results in a potentially dangerous meat being consumed, although its hard to go into detail about that.
Most potentially threatening to our collective health is the rise of diseases in animals. H1N1 for example or the "bird flu" H1N5, where did they come from? and if history tells us anything, the 1918 Spanish flu, where did it come from? In the face of examples like this people may say, well, it could originate in smaller breeding stocks such as the 1918 flu, so what does that have to do with consumption of meat? While having smaller farms does not entirely guard against generations of new flu it does reduce the risk. Smaller groups of animals with healthier genetics are less likely to contract or spread disease and healthier animals don't need as many antibiotics (animals consume more antibiotics in the US than people). Influenza is being given a large, unhealthy, antibiotic filled population against which to grow strong, resistant to antibiotics, and to spread. To me, this seems pretty dangerous and foolish when the World Health Organization predicts that its not a matter of if, but when the world will face a massive pandemic.

4. Money (5%); Lastly, money. This should be an easy one. Everyone likes money, so why not keep more or it? At the very least we can exchange the quantity of meat we eat for the quality. You could just eat less factory meat, which will save money because grains and veggies are cheaper or you could use the money you save from not eating factory farmed meats to buy meat from places who raise more natural animals in more natural and humane ways and are close to where you live thereby cutting environmental costs associated with shipping and supporting your area farmers. Not to mention that the meat tastes so much better.
While meat may seem cheap (look up how much the cost of meat has risen in the past 50 years compared to other things) when you consider the ethics, the health reasons, and the environmental impact it becomes more expensive.

I would like to end by first thanking you for reading all of that, I know it was much longer than my typical post. I hope that it has sparked your thinking and will lead to some dietary changes of your own. If you agree with me, or disagree with me, have advice or criticism or maybe even just a good vegetarian recipe to share or a good local farm to endorse, let me know. I would love to address more issues on this topic, I can see there are a lot of things I did not talk about, but this post is getting long.

Tuesday, January 12, 2010

Tokyo Marathon


Next month I will be running the Tokyo Marathon. Yes, it is a full marathon and yes I have been training. If you haven't noticed yet there is a link on the right side of this blog which links you to a running journal that I have been keeping.
Tokyo Marathon is a relatively young marathon. The first Tokyo Marathon was held on 18th March 2007. However, years prior to 2007, Tokyo Marathon actually consisted of two marathons - the Tokyo International Marathon which took place on even years, and Tokyo - New York Friendship International Marathon which took place on odd years. There are so many people that apply that a lottery must take place to determine who gets to run. This year about 275,000 people applied. Only 30,000 got in. I was one of them.
This will be my first marathon, so I am not sure what to expect, but judging from the photos it will be crazy packed with people. When I first signed up in July I thought that my goal, should I win the lottery, would be to just complete the race. That has evolved at bit from completing the race, to finishing under 5 hours, finishing under 4.5 hours and now finishing under 4 hours. 4 hours is an unofficial marker for a good time for a marathon. If you can get less than 4 you are fairly swift. Right now my 15k times (avg 1hr 15min, including two short walking breaks and a short drinking/eating break) are telling me that I could do it in less than 4, that is if I can keep that pace. The longest run I have had so far has been 23k, which I am hoping to top this weekend. Even at 23k my pace held, so I am hoping it will hold for the entire 42.195k However recently I have had some injuries and had to cut back training, so my goal is back to being under 4.5 Right now, my main hope is that I remain injury free to race day just so I can race at all.

As race day approaches I think more and more about timing, but really it doesnt matter a lick. Its my first marathon and so any time will be my best time.

Sunday, January 10, 2010

New Year


Kyoto on New Years was fun. We stayed with our friends who conveniently live right next to Aya’s aunt and uncle. Most of the time we lounged around, but on one day we went to Nara to check out the Great Buddha. It is roughly 16 meters, or about 50 feet tall and was built in the 8th century. Of course very little of the original remains, but it was still very cool. We were also there on the last day before the city’s 1300th birthday. 1300! Wow, very cool. Nara was nice, a peaceful place. I recommend, however, going in another season because winter is very cold. Also, be careful with the deer. There are tame deer all around that you can feed, but they are not 100% friendly. One deer head butted my friend and another deer stole a map out of his pocket when he wasn’t looking and ran away with it. He was very unfortunate. Here is the site where Brian posts his videos. You can go here to see footage of us bowing to the deer at Nara. http://www.youtube.com/user/brianadler#p/a/u/0/1IKlvmbjys4

Far and away, but not really



This winter break Aya and I did not travel to some distant land, but stayed right here in Japan, which can seem distant enough given the right locations. Now that is not to say that we didn’t do anything. We had decided a few months ago that we would like to do some volunteer work and searched for a suitable place. We found an organization called Woof and signed up with them. Once signed up we could see the profiles of many people that had signed up to host people. We saw many farms and hotels, ski resorts and other businesses looking for people to come volunteer with them, but we chose a small farm in Shizuoka. Why did we choose it? Because they said they brewed beer. Now essentially we wanted to volunteer somewhere where people needed us to help them, but as we left Aizu we realized that that was not what we were doing and somewhere along the way our good intentions had been replaced by something much safer and closer to home, which happens a lot when you are in Japan. Despite this we went on.
When we arrived the season converged at an unproductive time and we really didn’t do much of anything. We sowed some seeds, sorted mikans, and made some New Years decorations to earn our room and meals, but it was not hard work and we only put in 4 or 5 hours a day. The rest of the time was spent lounging about or eating dinner with the family. Oh, and did I mention they had two ostrich, a huge German shephard and two cats both named Tama?
They were extremely friendly. When on the first night we asked why they had signed up to host woofers the son said that he wanted contact with foreign people. This struck me as odd. Most males in Japan either don’t have interest in foreigners or are afraid to admit they do. I don’t know why this is, but it is something that I have observed. So over the next few days I tried to talk with Yoshitsugu, the son, as much as I could although he was busy actually working while Aya and I were “working”
At the end of our three days they packed us up nicely with mikans and sho-chu and sent us on our way. I promised Yoshitsugu that I would keep in contact and we may even join up to watch some sumo at the end of January.

Saturday, December 05, 2009

Bowing diplomacy


Last month president Barack Obama made a 9 day visit to Asia. On this trip, like most of his foreign policy, he was received well but didnt get much actually done. However, this is not what I would like to discuss. Or maybe it is, but only in relation to something else that happened. On his tour he made a stop in Japan. Unfortunately the discussion he had with the prime minister, Hatoyama, did not make big headlines in the U.S. What did make headlines is that he bowed to the emperor of Japan.
I first learned about this from a forum of JETs here in Japan. We all came to the same decision as to what the bow meant. I then heard a bunch about news stories in the US and when I was in Hawaii bought Time, 2 issues of Newsweek, and the Economist. All three magazines mentioned the trip and the bow. Time and Newsweek both mentioned that it was not received well by people in the US, but failed to go furthur. The Economist, however, commented not on the media attention it was getting exactly, but the bow itself and its impact in Japan. I think they hit it right on the head by saying, "There was all the customary talk-show outrage over what much of the rest of the world would view as a gesture of cultural courtesy".
The first thing that people in the US should realize is that they live in the US and while a bow may mean something to them it is entirely different here in Japan. The people of Japan did not see this as the president of the US losing face in front of the emperor, but gaining it. This bow wasn't meant for the people of the U.S. to analyze, it was meant for the Japanese people, in a Japanese context. In Japan bowing is respectful and those who dont are considered arrogant and rude.
For me, and I think much of the rest of the world, that bow was a symbol of respect that went a long way in restoring what was lost in the past 10 years. The world is expecting change from Obama and in matters of foreign diplomacy at least, it seems, that it is happening.

Hawaii

Hawaii was as beautiful as everyone says it is. The weather was great and it only rained a few times, but even those rains were gentle and warm. The ocean was beautiful and the people were equally so. I was most surprised and happy with the number of Japanese people/speakers on the islands and as I make rounds apply for jobs this Spring I will certainly send a few to Hawaii.
As far as sightseeing on Oahu we went to Waikiki beach and the North Shore. Both were beautiful beaches and the waves on the North shore were monsters at about 25 feet. It was amazing to see people surfing them. We missed going to the Bishop museum which I heard was good, along with hiking Diamond Head and seeing the Arizona memorial which I really wanted to do being an avid hiker and history teacher. We also missed out on Hanauma bay, which just about all our friends and family told us was a beautiful bay with great snorkeling.
Near the end of our trip we flew to Hawaii to spend about 12 hours on that big island, and big it is. As we flew in over the land we could only see a scattering of lights as opposed to Oahu which seemed like the vegas strip at night. On the big island we visited black sands beach which was amazingly beautiful at 7am and the Volcano National Park. The park features a number of trails, some of which we got to hike, and lots of interesting things. We didn’t get close enough to active lava, but according to the accounts of friends and family it was stunning. We also made a stop at Rainbow falls which was beautiful. I took a turn swinging from vine (or tree?) that was fun until my abrupt stop against another tree, ouch! How does Tarzan do it?
Overall the islands seemed like very interesting places with much to do, although we didn’t get to indulge that much. We are even thinking of returning this spring for a honeymoon just because we are now tempted to see it all.

The Wedding





Getting married. Well, now I am married. I guess there are two things I would like to say about it. First; how it all went down. Second; how I feel about it. So, first; Aya and I left Japan on the 18th of November, crossed the dateline and spent the 18th all over again in Hawaii. The first day we checked in then immediatly did various appointments for kimono, AV guy, etc. Later met up with some friends at night. We were jet lagged, but refused to go to bed early and by the time we got up the next day we were on the clock nicely. Friday saw us greeting incoming family before renting a car and going to our friend dan’s rehearsal dinner and the bachelor/bachelorette parties which had both of us out late. On Saturday, the day of my friends wedding, I didn’t even get up til 1 though our phones had been ringing since 7am, and even then wasn’t feeling super. Dan’s wedding was quite good and his bride was looking beautiful. All in all good time. Sunday we had our own shebang. By 12 we were both up, although again calls starting at 7am, and getting ready and were to the shrine by 3. The ceremony went well and I cant imagine anything better. The reception that followed was also good and pretty much everything went as planned. There were some really good skits and songs and I think everyone had a good time. Monday we were up late because of the previous nights drinking, though the phone started ringing at 4am, and ended up hitting the road at 12ish with my brother, mom, and uncle. We went to the north shore to see some surfers which was cool. By 5 we were back in Waikiki where we didn’t do much of anything and went to bed early, we had a 5am flight to catch. The flight was fine, but anything at 5am is bound to suck so by the time we got to the big island of Hawaii we were all bushed. We ended up seeing Rainbow falls, the black sands beach, and some stuff at Volcano park such as a lava tube, and sulfur vents. We didn’t actually get to see lava, but could see the active volcano from a distance. That night, pooped out, Aya and I decided to spend time alone. I went for a run and by the time I got home she was out shopping for gifts. We she returned the stress of 6 days of non-stop family and planning came pouring out of her and we ended up going to bed very late. I may have actually fell asleep listening to her. The next day, Wednesday, we vowed to spend alone, doing what we wanted. We were both hurting to relax a little. We got up late,no 7am phone calls, I ran, she slept a little more then we did a small amount of shopping and went out for lunch. In the afternoon we hit the beach for an hour and then said goodbye to my family before heading to the Hilton hotel for a Luau. The Luau was good, but was on a rooftop and so maybe not so traditional. However the dancers were spectacular. I even was called on stage for a dance alone with 5 ladies, spectacular. Aya said she couldn’t see my hips, which was probably good considering I cant dance at all. After we got some popcorn and headed back to our room to watch some TV and slowly pack our bags. Thursday morning we were up early and to the airport by noon. The flight back was good, I watched 4 movies, and getting to Tokyo was a relief, but also depressing as I was stared at on the train back from the airport. OH JAPAN!Good to be reminded that I am a stranger in a foreign land.

Now, part 2; how do I feel about all of this. Well, this was the culmination of months of planning. Many people said to me “I bet aya is very busy”. Well, we were both very busy. Because the wedding was in America we did joint planning and I wasn’t missing for any step of the way, it was hard work for the both of us and involved lots of emails and phone calls to confirm and reconfirm then switch, then switch back, etc. We also received no planning help from parents or friends because well, no one lives in Hawaii and it would be almost more work to have a third person help out. By the time we actually got to Hawaii it was like a dream, not because we were having so much fun, but because we were both looking forward to it all being over with. We had to constantly remind each other that is was just a little more, a little more, a little more. Once our ceremony and reception came the stress was at a fever pitch as people showed up 2 minutes before our ceremony started and things like place settings weren’t finished when we arrived at the reception. By the time the reception was over our relief was palpable. At this point I think we both thought it was time to sit down and relax, but it was not so. My family wanted to spend time with me and that combined with various other things led to us getting little sleep and no alone time in the next two days which ended up with Aya having a small meltdown and me having to stop and reassess what exactly I was doing. We did finally get one day by ourselves and that was a great relief.
Now by saying all that I don’t want to say that I didn’t enjoy spending time with my family or friends or that I had no fun at my wedding or that I saw very little of Hawaii, although all those things are partially true. I had a great time hanging out with my brother and mother. I think my uncle Paul was fun for Aya and I to hang out with throughout the whole trip. Our friends were supportive and if nothing else provided a great bachelor/bachelorette party for us. Especially our friends Brian and Cynthia deserve a huge thanks for helping us at the reception and as various other stages as well as lending us a sympathetic ear as we complained about various things. Although the ceremony and reception were almost too busy to enjoy, I did enjoy it and my bride was beautiful. Much of my family was there and many people came from very far to be there, Germany the farthest I think. Perhaps that is a 16 hour flight? It's pretty much as far as you can get. Everything went off well and everyone we talked to had a good time which is a really good thing considering all the different kinds of people we were bringing together and all the potential for mis-understanding and uncomfortable silences. The cake, food, and drinks that I did get to have were delicious and the staff at the Willows and at Masako Formal Wear was great, along with our AV guy, Myles, who was visibly busting his ass to do everything he could for us. As far as seeing Hawaii and its landscape along with its people I don’t feel full enough, but I did get a taste and from what I tasted the people are relaxed and kind and MY GOD there are a lot of Japanese people there!
To make this all concise, the wedding was great and went well. It was very busy, but also kind of fun. We didn’t get to do much sightseeing and would like to return someday.

Saturday, October 24, 2009

Nikko







Two weekends ago I went to Nikko, a UNESCO world heritage site. To those outside of Japan Nikko will have very little or no meaning, so I will explain a little bit about Japanese history. As some people know, Japan has an emperor and that empirical line has “ruled” Japan for as long as most written history goes. The true origins are unknown although there is a first recorded instance of someone claiming the descent from the gods and that is where the empirical line can legitimately be traced to. In any case, the emperor has not always been the actual ruler, the present being one of those times. Two things have to be considered. First; although the emperor has not always been the one in control, the line has always been recognized as the legitimate heir to Japan, as it were. Which enters my second point, Japan; as it were. Japan has not always been what we think of it now. Most early history crowds around the areas of present day Kyoto, Osaka, and Tokyo and that was Japan. It is not until the last 500 years or so that anyone gave any concern to what was to the north of those regions, like where I live now, or to the giant island of Hokkaido. Okinawa is a different, but similar story, but I digress.
The point of all of this is that the unification of Japan, the establishment of a country, and who ruled what when, changes so who ruled what when gets slippery.
So, why the history lesson? Well, Nikko is the burial site of one of the most famous of Japanese people, Ieyasu Tokugawa. He was the first shogun to unite all of Japan, which means he was the first to wrest control of Japan, as it was, from the hands of everyone else, including the figure head emperor of that time. You see, for a large portion of recent Japanese history the country has been ruled not by emperor but by shogun. When we westerners picture old Japan, full of warriors and temples, etc. this is probably what we are picturing, the time of the shoguns.
Along with Ieyasu, his grandson Iemitsu is buried at Nikko. There is also the Futarasan Shrine, which dates to the year 767. That is enough to be pretty cool. Before the discovery of the Americas, before the Magna Carta, before… you get the point, and you can touch it! There is also the famous Three Wise Monkeys, yes, you know them. Hear no, see no, speak no EVIL! There is also a fourth, do no evil, but he was out doing evil so I didn't see him. It’s those monkeys and that is where they come from! Well… at least that is where their fame comes from, the proverb is likely much older. How about that?

Back to Ieyasu; the reason he is important is that he was the first shogun to consolidate power under one shogun. This ushered in about 300 years of rule by his family that ended shortly after the opening of Japan to the west by Perry’s black ships in the 1850’s. That is why he is important. When I asked Aya why he picked Nikko for his burial place she didn’t know. Later, after we had wandered around a bit she said that he had never been to Nikko. I am still wondering why he would want to be buried there. It is a beautiful place, but I can’t see someone wanting to spend eternity somewhere they had never been given that they could have easily gone there during their lifetime to check it out.

There are a few animal carvings around the temple grounds. The first and most famous is the three monkey mentioned above. The second is the sleeping cat. People were piled up to take a picture of this cat, why I didn’t know. I snapped a picture of it because I happened to be walking under the gate and thought it might make a good story later. Turns out that the sculptor Jingoro, was quite well known and that the spirit of Ieyasu is believed to reside in the sculpture. The third, and I think most interesting sculpture is of two elephants. As you can see, one elephant is very strange looking, kind of furry and just generally grotesque looking while the other looks more like a rhino/tiger cross. This is not what the affect artist intended. You see, the artist, Kanyo Tanyu, never saw an elephant! Yes, that is right, never saw one! At the time, it hardly mattered, since no one else had seen an elephant either. I can imagine his thought process, "hm...yes, fur, three claws, a monstrous eye, perfect... yes!"

You would think with all this interesting and beautiful stuff in one place (and there is more than I mention) that my favorite part would be something old or ornate, but it was not. Toward the beginning of our walk around the grounds we went up to a shrine on top of a hill. Around the corner from the main objects was a very small shrine built into a tree. Aya jumped in line to pray as I waited and in line with her was a mother with a boy of about 6 years old. As they stood in line the boy asked, “mama, what are we doing here?” she said, “well, we will put this money in the box and then pray for what we want.” And the boy said, “I want to be a ninja!” and started prancing around like a ninja/pony cross. Everyone in line had a good giggle. It was the best thing I saw all day. Aya said it was refreshing to know that even Japanese kids want to grow up to be ninjas, and that someday, maybe, he might get his wish.

Sunday, October 04, 2009

Mr. James


McDonald's Japan came out with a new ad a few months ago that has raised the ire of some white residents living in Japan. The new ad campaign features a character named Mr. James, who promotes a new series of burgers called the Nippon All Stars. The character, while not readily identified in ads as American, is indeed so. However, to know that you have to access his blog through McDonald's. In the ads Mr. James speaks poor Japanese and on posters uses poor Japanese combined with katakana, the writing system for foreign words (even though Mr. James is speaking Japanese, however poorly, his words are rendered in katakana).

Some of the foreign white community in Japan have taken offense to these ads for a number of reasons.

I have to agree. While the community outside Japan may see this as no big deal I do and I am offended by this ad. I wish that McDonald's would stop this ad and I have not eaten there since the ad began and will not until it is stopped.
Unfortunately in Japan people have little idea of what an actual foreign person is like. This is part of the reason I am here. I am here to be a foreign person, any person not of Japanese decent, in my community. There are 6,000 people in my town, they are all Japanese. When ad campaigns like Mr. James give reason for the people in my town to apply ideas to me I am not happy. I have spent the past 2 years here trying to break those ideas down, to show the people in my town that I am an individual and part of their community. Although I think this man said it best in an editorial on the blog of Arudou Debito, a foreign man with Japanese citizenship.

"The people complaining about this ad live in Japan, pay taxes here, and in some cases have naturalised and become Japanese citizens. Of course from the outside it doesn’t seem like a big deal -it isn’t going to affect your lives or the way your children are treated in school or on the street.

We find this campaign reinforces unwelcome stereotypes that affect our lives here. I have been denied housing, bank loans, and even entry to businesses specifically because of my race/nationality. By pandering to the ‘hapless foreigner’ stereotype, McDonald’s is reinforcing the idea that non-Japanese cannot speak Japanese or conduct themselves properly in Japan.

A multinational corporation like McDonald’s should be more careful about the subliminal messages they put out, and we are just trying to bring that to their attention."

I hope McDonald's, regardless of what they originally thought was a good ad campaign, will now realize how insensitive they have been and stop their ads.

Running




This morning I ran the Wakamatsu Tsuruga Castle Marathon. In Japan, any race can carry the name marathon and be under marathon length. It is also common to say marathon(ing) instead of running. I decided to run the 10k, which while my longest race, is not the longest distance I have ever run. I was the only foreign person running the 10k, one my friends in Wakamatsu ran the 5k, he got a 21:03, which is a pretty good time. My fastest 5k has been just under 22:00.
Today I ran a 51:43 which while a decent time was not what I had hoped for. In training I was running just over 50:00 and was hoping that the added plus of actually having people running with and against me would propel me to do better and maybe get a 49 or 48. It was not to be. While I finished the first 5k in about 23:30, twice during the second half I had to walk in order to bring down my pulse quickly. I became dizzy and so decided to check my pulse. My watch has a heart monitor on it and when it exceeds 185 beats per minute the watch will beep, which means, STOP, and it did twice. Normally I run between 155-165 beats per minute and will go to 175 or so when I am sprinting at the end of a race, but the day was hotter than normal and I was overheating. So twice I walked.
In any case I am happy with my run, it is the first formal race that I have done in a long time and in the past two months I have run the fastest and longest distances that I have ever run. Many of you are probably thinking, that is great, but why even run? What is the point?
There are two reasons I did this race. The first is that I took initiative to have people pledge money for my run, the proceeds of which I am donating to an orphanage in Thailand called Baan Dada(see sponsor names above on my homemade shirt). Some of the JETs in the prefecture responding by pledging money to see me finish, so I couldn’t let them down. The second reason is that. I love running. My day doesn’t feel complete if I don’t run, or exercise in some way, and it is a great time for me to unwind mentally and physically. Beating the paths around the river in my town I have had lots of moments of peaceful reflection, improved my health, and seen wildlife that I would not have otherwise. I also see my students out and about town and I hope it encourages those that already do to stick with it. Today, I saw many of my students at the race. A few of them were cheering me on as I ran and a few I met after where I learned what race they had just done or were about to do. It was great to see them so happy with what they had achieved. Seeing the power that inspires these kids to run inspires me also. I hope that in turn seeing me at the race will encourage them to keep running.

Tuesday, September 29, 2009

Sado Island






Sado island is the 6th largest island in the Japanese archipelago (excluding the northern territories), behind the big 4 that make up the main body of Japan, and then the 5th, Okinawa. It is relatively close to me, about 2 hours by car, then a 2 hour ferry. I have wanted to go for some time, but just could never work out enough time to get in gear. Last week was Silver Week. It is called such because in May there is Golden week, a time when many holidays happen to fall on the same week and so lots of people vacation then. This year, certain holidays in September happened to fall during the week, creating a 5 day weekend. Time to travel.

Aya and I did a little research, packed up the car, and groaned at the ferry fee, but we made it to Sado very sound. It was great weather the whole time, sunny with a slight breeze and just perfect temperature. I felt like I was some little girl in a bear’s house eating porridge. Just right.
There are many interesting things to see on Sado Island from the oldest steel lighthouse in Japan, an abandoned gold mine, lots of beaches, an endangered species (the ibis), the Alcohol Republic, Charles Jenkins and tarai-bune.
The first day there we departed the ferry and started to drive north east, reaching futatsugame beach where we spent some time foraging on the beach. I felt like I was home again with the wind in my hair as I combed the shore for glass and interesting bones. It was great. From there we followed the coast west and took a glass bottomed boat ride over some very interesting rock formations, but really we did not have much time that day to do anything as just about everything shuts down after 6. Sado was strange and wonderful in that way. The buildings were very old and the atmosphere very small town. It was very relaxing compared to the hustle and plastic in the rest of Japan.

Day two had us up early (since we went to sleep at 9) and on my morning run I discovered the oldest iron lighthouse in Japan was about 30ft from our hotel. We snapped a few pictures then headed south and west along the south shore to have some fun in the tarai bune. Basically, these are giant wooden washtubs that people paddle with one ridiculous paddle. You basically have to grab the handles and make a churning motion to move the boat. When Aya tried we went backwards. She was really good. After that we headed north and to the Alcohol Republic. It is so named because there are a good number of sake factories in close proximity. I was told you could get a passport and get stamped at various establishments which of course excited me because it combines two of my favorite things, using a passport and alcohol. Unfortunately no one seemed to know where to get a passport. They did however know where to get free sake for me to taste, so I was ok with it, and then pretty happy with it, then I wasn’t sure what I was or was not happy with.
After some lunch in town we headed to the gold mine to find some gold of our own. After paying a 700yen entrance fee we went through a small museum and into an area full of troughs with sand in them. We were then showed how to pan and let go for 30 minutes to find what we could. We each scored about 8 small flakes. I told Aya that we should do this for a living, she did not agree. After getting brow beaten by an old lady outside to buy an ice cream cone (we got chocolate) we took off again, this time to see what Aya’s co-worker had described as the best thing on Sado Island, animatronics robots performing a Noh play. I had to wonder how robots performing a Noh play could be the best thing on the island, considering there was an endangered species and a gold mine, not to mention REAL Noh plays in the cultural birthplace of this distinct type of theater. We arrived at the center and found out the bots were broken; I guess I will never know the best part of Sado Island.
After that disappointment we went off to see the Japanese Crested Ibis. I had read about the Ibis and was almost as excited to see it as I was to see the Liger in Korea. This particular type of bird was thought to have gone extinct about 5 years ago, then some were found in China (is everything just waiting to be found in China?) and they were bred and given to Japan, which has since managed to breed a good number of the birds, so much in fact that about 12 were released a year ago, back into the wild. The center, nicely priced at 200yen, is basically a small museum and then a short viewing area from which you can see the birds at about 100ft. You can’t get closer. I don’t know if I really wanted to though, they birds are ugly and their call is far from beautiful. It sounds like someone blowing their nose and shrieking. Needless to say it did not compare to the Liger, but it was still cool to see a living thing so rare.
As we left the Ibis center we realized that it was 430pm and it would soon be getting dark. I felt somewhat like we were on an island that would be seized by vampires after the sun set as everyone scurried around doing what they could before activity ceased around 6. We had a plan of our own and went back to our hotel to get drunk.

On day three we had about 3 hours to kill before we headed to the ferry, first on the list, go back to the gold mine and pan again! That’s right; I got Aya to change her mind, almost. She agreed that it was fun, so we went again, but she still would not concede that we should do it full time. This time we managed to get past the old woman hawking ice cream on the way out. With about 1 hour left to kill we decided to do what I had been rolling over in my mind the whole time, visit Mr. Jenkins. Charles Jenkins defected to North Korea when he was serving as a soldier for the US army in South Korea in 1965. One night after deciding that he did not want to go to Vietnam he drank a bunch of beer and walked across the line. He says he almost instantly regretted it. Many years later he was introduced to a Japanese woman the North Koreans had kidnapped from Sado Island, they fell in love and had two kids. Mind you still in N. Korea. In 2005 through a deal between the Japanese and N. Korean government he and his family were allowed to enter and stay in Japan. Once there Jenkins served 24 days in a U.S. army jail for desertion and was discharged. Jenkins now lives on Sado, with his wife, and works at one of the local history museums/ gift shops. He is a very popular tourist attraction and I must admit that I wanted to go see him, but at the same time I was thinking that he must be awfully sick of all the attention. We arrived at the museum and found out the fee was 700 yen to enter, which was just enough to deter me from going in. You may have your peace Mr. Jenkins.
After that we went back to the ferry port, boarded for our way home on a beautiful sunny day and left Sado behind. It was a very quiet and lovely place.

Tuesday, September 22, 2009

John Lennon Museum



Aya and I went to the John Lennon museum located in Saitama last weekend. It was really cool. The price to get in is not much, I think it cost us 1,300yen for the both of us and we got a discount because we were married, funny. Although most items in the museum have a Japanese explanation accompanying them, a great deal of them also have English which was really nice. Also, even though it was a Saturday, there were not many people in the museum and at times we were entirely alone.
The items in the museum and the set up itself is pretty cool. Room by room you go through the objects and stories of John’s life starting from his early years all the way to his death. I was very impressed with the amount of authentic objects in the museum from guitars to glasses, to art and signatures, to his report cards and diary. We were asked not to take pictures and I obeyed, mostly, one picture I could not resist and that is the one above, John’s report card!
The overall feeling of the museum was great, it really gave me the impression of actually understanding the years passing and progression from one thing to another. It gave me a much greater perspective on John’s life. I even learned that he visited Japan a number of times and kept a journal with pictures for learning Japanese, that was really cool. There were also many photos and objects from other personal moments and I felt the most moved when viewing objects from the 5 years when John took off to care for Sean.
If you are in the Tokyo area and are a Lennon fan I would highly recommend this place. If you are just a casual tourist I would still recommend it, but only if you have ample time to see other Tokyo places first.