This past weekend we went to Harbin. We took a flight from Beijing to Harbin on Saturday morning, with a return on Sunday evening. We were really just going for the ice festival. We stayed at the Harbin Friendship Palace Hotel. Usually I don't mention where we stay, but this time around I was fairly disappointed with the service at this place. The location was good and the hotel itself was in fair condition, but its listed as having 4 stars. This can't be true. Paint was cracking off the walls and the gym and pool that all travel websites said were at this hotel, were not. I just don't like not getting what I pay for. Perhaps this experience tainted the rest of my time in Harbin.
We arrived around noon on Saturday and before leaving the airport we noticed that there were "changing rooms" for people who wanted to switch into warm weather gear before leaving the airport. A good idea. As soon as we left the airport we noticed it was colder than Beijing, but not too bad. We grabbed a cab from the queue just outside and to the left of the main exit, signs are all around. The cab to the city took 20-30 minutes and cost about 140rmb. At first we weren't sure if this was a normal price, but it seems it is.
Checking into the hotel was odd as the staff, while friendly, was not very proactive and spoke no English. After checking in we went back to our room for a nap. It was a decent room, but the whole hotel had a damp funk to it. After taking a nap we headed for the ice festival.
From the Frienship Palace Hotel we walked directly across the river to the festival. Along the edge of the frozen river there were lots of people sledding, racing cards and buggies, skating, and just having a good time. It was kind of neat and a good festive spirit to it. We aimed to get there around dusk so we could see the fest in day light and some darkness. It took us about 10 minutes to cross the river and then find where to buy tickets to enter the festival grounds. Essentially there are three tickets to buy for 120, 240, and/or 300. We opted to go for the 240 and then decide later if we wanted to see more. I was kind of disappointed that we had to pay as when I visited the Sapporo Snow Festival in Japan years earlier I didn't. I don't know, I just kind of expected it to be free so that was a bit of a let down.
We had aimed to get to the festival a bit earlier than it officially opened as we wanted to beat the crowds. It worked. Unfortunately it also meant that many of the sculptures were not completed and some were still being worked on. It was a bit interesting to see them being carved though. We walked around for a bit then went to a snack shack by a sledding hill to warm up. After getting my toes toasty we went outside again and finally decided to get back as it was getting very cold. Initially we didn't think too much of COLD Harbin, but when the sun sets it gets to around -20C. We rushed back across the river to our hotel and by the time we got there I almost thought my nose had been frost nipped. We warmed up, then headed out for a vegetarian hot pot restaurant just around the corner. It was a great eat and the owner even rounded down the bill for us when we left, the first time that has happened. On the way out we noticed a very curious store (pictured). From a distance we thought it was a Family Mart, but it wasn't, honest.
The next day we lolled around the hotel until we had to check out then headed go Gogul St., the main shopping area. It was a long pedestrian street and there were lots of people there. Many of the shops were western brands, but there were a lot of other shops plus many souvenir and Russian goods shops. We followed the street then hooked left/north to get to St. Sophia church. The Russians had a big impact on Harbin and that can be seen in the architecture of the buildings and wide boulevards as well as some of the character of the people here. St. Sophia's now has a photo memorial/museum inside of it which you can see for 20rmb. We went inside for a bit, then to a cafe across the square to get a hot tea before getting a cab back to the airport.
Overall it was an interesting trip and one I am glad we made, but I was a bit disappointed with the festival and very disappointed with the hotel. At one point when I was looking for info on the hotel I entered some dates in March for booking and a price came back for 500usd a night! We paid 80 and it was hardly worth that. The ice festival itself was neat, but I was disappointed that we had to pay so much to get in and really I enjoyed the Sapporo Festival much more. Harbin is a nice large city with a good amount to see, but in some ways its just another big polluted Chinese city. I would recommend going to Harbin and seeing the ice fest there, just be aware of what you are going for.
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